Last Updated on March 21, 2019 by mountainswithmegan
The Cordillera Huayhuash (pronounced “why-wash”) Circuit is an up and coming trek in the Peruvian Andes and is said to be one of the most beautiful hikes in the world. It’s where the hardcore hikers go to avoid the crowds of the Cordillera Blanca. It’s remote, it’s high altitude, and there’s a low number of tourists doing it.
In the words of some random girl I met at a hostel in Lima, “You have to be tough to do the Huayhuash.”
WHY THE HUAYHUASH
- If you like to hike, the Andes are a bucket list destination up there with the Himalaya. I found the scenery on the Cordillera Huayhuash comparable to what I saw in Nepal, although the on-trail experience was totally different. If you live in North America, the plane ticket to Peru will be about half the cost of a flight to Nepal.
- It’s tough. If you’re up for a challenge, take on this circuit. Months later, I’m still telling people that the Cordillera Huayhuash was the hardest hike I’ve ever done.
- It’s remote. While the trail is obvious and there are designated campsites, it still has the new adventure feel.
- It’s quiet. Come here to avoid the Blanca hikers. I ran into a few organized groups and a few independent trekkers, but there were not a lot of people compared to other trails I’ve done.
- It’s cheap. During my entire 18 days in Peru, I only spent about $500 (and that was with splurging on a pricey tourist hostel in Huacachina during my last few days). This was mostly due to the fact that I spent nine of those days in the mountains, barely paying for anything.
BEFORE YOU GO
Food Planning
If you are hiking without an agency, I would strongly recommend bringing your own food from home. I figured I would just buy food at the grocery store in Huaraz. While they had plenty of options available, it wasn’t the type of stuff I would usually be eating on a multi-day hike. I ended up with bags of lentils (that take forever to cook), a loaf of bread, sauce packets that weren’t to my taste, a $5 jar of peanut butter, and more cookies than I really wanted to eat.
Length of Time to Hike
Most sources estimate the trek to take anywhere from seven to fourteen days. This is a wide range of time, especially if you are trying to plan how much food to bring. For some context, my trek took nine days. On day six I reached the town of Huayllapa, which is the first and only place to resupply. Plan to bring enough food to get to that town. They have one small shop that has things like Ramen noodles and oatmeal. There is not a lot of options, but it’s enough to get you through the last few days of the trail.
There are gear shops in Huaraz, but plan to bring most things with you to Peru.
Gear Checklist:
- Backpack, 50+ liters with good hip support
- Freestanding tent, there are no trees for tying tarps or hammocks
- Sleeping bag, around 20 degree F (or -7 C)
- Sleeping pad, both foam or inflatable will be fine
- Camp stove, canisters can be purchased in Huaraz
- Water treatment and capacity for 2-3 liters
- Hiking shoes or boots
- Outfit to hike in
- Rain jacket
- Base layer top and bottom for night
- Down jacket
- Gloves and hat
- Sunscreen and sunglasses
- Toiletries- toothbrush, toothpaste, hand sanitizer, baby wipes, etc.
ONCE IN PERU
I flew into Lima and booked a hostel in the Miraflores area ahead of time. From there I needed to make the eight hour bus ride to Huaraz. I bought my ticket online the night before from busportal.pe I didn’t realize there was an English version of the website, so I spent a long time trying to translate words and figure out what exactly I was purchasing. I felt silly afterward, but the important thing is that I bought a ticket and made in to the bus station on time.
Acclimatization in Huaraz
Take a few days to acclimatize in Huaraz, otherwise say hello to altitude sickness. The elevation of Huaraz is 10,000 feet (3,050 meters). You probably also should do an acclimatization day hike while there. Transportation for a day hike can be organized through trekking agencies or hostels. Huaraz is also a cool city to hang out in. I enjoyed filling up on cheap beer and shopping for homemade jewelry. There’s some delicious Chifa restaurants, which is a type of Chinese Peruvian food.
Transportation to the Cordillera Huayhuash
When you finally do want to leave Huaraz to start your trek, walk down to the bus station and buy a ticket for Chiquian. This should cost about 10 soles and the bus will leave in the morning before daylight. From Chiquian, you will get on another bus to Pocpa for about 12 soles.
Bring at least 250 soles for the camp fees along the trail. Small change is preferable, as sometimes the cobradores can’t break large bills. Bring additional money if you need to do a food resupply in Huayllapa.
THE CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH CIRCUIT
The Huayhuash Circuit is a beast of a trek. I would only recommend it if you have done a trek before and have an idea of what you’re getting into. I would only recommend going guide-less if you are at a confident level of backpacking experience, have taken the time to acclimatize, and are physically fit and able to carry a pack loaded with a week of food.
The guidebook for this trail is Peru’s Cordilleras Blanca & Huayhuash, available on Amazon. I found this to have all the information I needed, from getting to the trail to information on elevations and campsites. The only downside is that I didn’t find the hiking time estimations to be accurate. It usually took me longer to get between campsites. I bought a map in Huaraz, which I didn’t end up needing.
For the most part, I could clearly find the trail for my whole journey. There were a few times I accidentally veered off trail, but I do have a tendency to get lost more than the average person. On my iPhone I installed the maps.me app and pre-downloaded the maps for the region I was in. Once downloaded, my phone could use it’s GPS while on airplane mode. I also found this to be useful while hiking and trying to figure out how far away from camp I was.
This circuit goes over a pass everyday, ranging from 15,400 to 16,500 feet (4,690 to 5,050 meters). This means you will be hiking slower than usual, due to the altitude, and the walking itself is physically taxing. This also means that you will have spectacular views of the Andes every single day.
There is usually a fee associated with passing through certain regions on trail. The campsites all have a water source and a toilet. I enjoyed experiencing the land features that different campsites offered such as alpine lakes, hot springs, and views of white peaks.
Once you have finished your Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit, hop on the bus back to Huaraz. Congratulations, you have hiked one of the most gorgeous, difficult treks out there.
Beautiful! My partner and I are looking to do this trek next summer as part of a belated honeymoon and are trying to decide whether to go through an agency (which seems verrrry pricy) or just go on our own. We’ve both done lots of backpacking in the US (and a few places outside it) but we’ve never been to elevations above 14,500 or so, never been to Peru, and don’t speak Spanish.
Do you speak Spanish? Did you encounter any major logistical headaches in terms of planning or being allowed to camp at the various campsites?
Just got to your second post about the Huayhuash — that answers my questions! 🙂 Really enjoying the posts!
Awesome! I’m glad you found them useful 🙂
Do you know if it’s easy enough to find and hire a guide when you’re in huaraz? Or do you think you need to pre book if you’re looking for a guided trek?
I think it depends on how much time you have and how lucky you are. I met a few people who weren’t attached to which particular hike they did, like Huayhuash versus Blancas, and they found trips easily. I know there are always trips going regularly, it just depends on how much space they have. On the trail, I met a group hiking through http://www.enjoyhuayhuash.com and that seemed to be the most reasonably priced agency.
So in short, I would book in advance if you definitely want to do the Huayhuash Circuit. If you just want to get on any trail in the region, then see what the options are when you arrive.
WOW! SO AWESOME! Thanks for the great information! My best friend and I are doing the Huayhuash circuit at the end of July! Any advice would be appreciated! We’re going guideless and will only have a donkey driver who speaks zero English, and we speak little Spanish! SO excited!
Did you already book a mule and mule driver? if you don’t mind me asking, how did you do so? Thank you
I am very strongly considering going to Huayhuash this July and am trying to decide if we should go on a guided trek or not. My friend and I are experienced hikers but have read of folks over estimating themselves on the various treks, or having a hard time without a mule. We would arrive early and spending 2-3 days doing acclimatizing hikes around Huarez.
The guided treks are obviously expensive and we would like to avoid that. We have all the gear necessary for the trip, 65L Opsrey packs, lightweight tent/gear, etc. We are just hesitant to go on such a long hike (8-12) days packing our own food and only having one possible stop along the way to resupply. Do you know if it is possible to just pay for a mule/mule driver and how much that might cost? Or if you think its feasible to pack enough food for the 8-12 day trek in two 65L backpacks whilst carrying our own gear? Our spanish is limited unfortunately.
Thank you for any advice!
The altitude makes it very difficult to carry all of the necessary food for the trek. It can be done if you’re both strong hikers and well acclimatized. I would suggest going to a trekking agency in Huaraz and trying to book just a mule and driver that way. I would also suggest bringing food from home, as Huaraz doesn’t really have much backpacking food.
Did you do the trek solo or with a partner? I’m pretty confident fitness wise and ability wise but I’m having a hard time finding someone else to commit the time and challenge. Also, what time of year did you make your trip? Thanks and awesome post!
I did the first half solo, and then was adopted by a group for the second half. If you don’t want to hike alone, there are quite a few trekking agencies that run groups to that area. Although, it will probably be expensive if you’re booking it from the States. Also, there are designated campsites along the way, so there’s usually other people around at night. I did the trek in May, and the weather was great. Beautiful views, not too hot during the day, and chilly at night.
Awesome description of the trail! Hiking it solo in august and this definitely helps
Good luck with the hike. Glad to be of help.
Hi Megan, Thanks for the information it´s too useful!!!. I´ll travel in September and I have read about sleeping bags, the sleeping bag you used in this trekking has comfort temperature -7°C or this is the extreme temperature that the sleeping bag supports?
That was for extreme temperature. I felt comfortable to around freezing temperature in it.
Hi Megan, Thank you for the info. I have just booked on World Expeditions for May 2018. Waiting for the trip to be confirmed which is based on minimum number. (6, I think). Although for a small additional cost they will run with less than 6. So anyone thinking of going around that time maybe you would like to join this trip!
GREAT info! I’m looking for a good 5-10 day hike to do over Xmas/NY – This looks like a beautiful one!! How many miles/day did you hike?
Not many miles. Less than 10 miles a day because of the altitude and drastic elevation gains.
Hi! Did you do the Huayhuash solo? I am thinking of doing it this summer. I would be doing it solo as a female. How do you think that would be?
Yeah, I went solo and made friends about halfway through. I didn’t have any particular issues that related to being solo and female.
Hi Rebecca,
Are you still planning for a solo trip for the summer? I’d like to do this circuit this July, if you are looking for a partner-in-crime!
Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you!
Danna
Hi Megan,
Thanks for sharing your experience. It is amazing. I am thinking of doing it solo this summer. Any advise? How does it compare to John Muir Trail difficulty wise?
Well, I’ve never done the JMT so I don’t really know how to compare it. Most of the key advice I have is in this post. Have fun out there!
Hi Danna,
I was hoping to also do this circuit in July, but just now starting to do my research! I’d be interested in finding other people to do the hike with! Let me know!
Hi Jennie! I’m sorry I’m just seeing this now… I’m in huaraz now and attempting to plan to leave soon. You can what’s app me at +16087121575
Hey Megan, This has been an awesome resource! Thank you so much! I was wondering what camp stove you used (jetboil?) and what kind of canisters were sold in Huarez?
Thanks!
You’re welcome! I used my MSR Pocket Rocket. There were canisters available at the outdoor stores in Huaraz.
Hi, Megan. Thank you for sharing such a story.
I am thinking about doing the trail in the middle of December for 10 days or so, without a guide. Just 2 buddies.
I found out on a website that it is rainy season during that time of the year.
What do you think? Should I go for it?
How was the weather while in trail?
I’d appreciate it if you could answer that. 🙂
I went in May and the weather was perfect. I’ve never hiked in Peru during rainy season, but I have in Nepal. From my experience, it’s still worth it to hike during rainy season. In the Himalayas the rain wouldn’t hit until late afternoon, so I would get an early morning start and stop hiking in the early afternoon. Do some research to see if the Andes has similar rain patterns.
Hi Megan,
I really enjoyed reading your post – sounds like an amazing hike! Any recommendations on what time of year to do it (and/or when not to do it)? Thanks!
I went in May and the weather was perfect. I don’t have any specific info on other times to do it. I would recommend checking monthly weather reports for the region.
Awesome post. Very Helpful. I was wondering if you think it would be OK to do this hike in late January. I know it is part of the rainy season so I wasn’t sure if it would be flooded or too cold? Thanks!
Hey! I’m really not sure how the weather will be for you in January. Sorry.
Hi Megan,
How many days did it end up taking you to do the trek?
Also, my friend and I are trying to decide if we should get a mule to carry our things, or if we can just carry everything ourselves. I saw above that you suggested only going mule-less if you are well acclimatized, fit, and confident in your backpacking abilities. Both my friend and I are in good shape and have done multiple multi-day backpacking trips, but I’ve never hiked above 14,500, so I’m trying to figure out if doing this without mule support would be realistic. Do you have any thoughts or words of wisdom?
Thanks!!
Lily
Hmmm. That’s a tough one. You’ll probably be alright if you take time to acclimatize. Consider how your body reacted at 14 K feet. That could be an indicator for you.
Such great info! Question on camps: from the guidebook you recommended, it sounds like one really should stay in their established camps. But it seems like there’s a few spots where we might want to go just a few more miles. Is it quite offensive to the locals if you don’t stay in their established camps? And are there any new camps since the guidebook was published in 2015? Anyone know? Also, what sort of food is available for purchase in Huayllapa?
Yeah, there’s definitely more options than just the established camps. Locals won’t be offended about where you camp. You’ll still have to pay the land use fee regardless of where you’re sleeping though. In Huayllapa they just have super basic stuff like Ramen and oatmeal.
Thank you so much for this helpful post. I am a solo female and some people were advising not to go – but your post has given me hope !
Don’t worry too much. I only trust naysayers who have first hand experience.
Has anyone experience with llama trekking?
Is it something you would recommend?
And the practical part: How do you get a llama? Is it possible to hire one?
I would really like to hear from you!
Kind regards,
Anton
from Amsterdam
Hi! Would you recommend this for someone afraid of heights? (Narrow trail with drop offs)
I don’t remember too many drop offs. I think it was more an issue of high elevation.